TO SARONG OR NOT TO SARONG: THAT IS THE QUESTION

One thing that still intrigues me - and I believe always will - is the sight of a man in a sarong. Obviously, coming from a Western country, I am unaccustomed to seeing so many sarong-wearing men on a daily basis and it has got me wondering what it is that causes the sarong to be so enduring. Sure, many men wear shorts or trousers but it seems the encroachment of these modern, Westernised garments has had little threat on the existence of the sarong. I figure the sarong must have some serious advantages for it to fare so well in the face of trousers.

If I find myself sitting watching a conversation, say, between three men - two wearing sarongs and one wearing trousers - I will inevitably start wondering what caused two of them to decide to don sarongs that day and the other trousers. And are they in any way conscious of the differences in their attire. Do sarong-wearers secretly think that pants-wearers look silly? Do pants-wearers laugh about sarong-wearers behind their backs? Does a sarong-wearer ever wear pants or a pants-wearer ever wear a sarong?

Now I know a few simple questions could put an end to all this wondering but now I wonder if I really want the answers or would I rather keep the mystique. If I were to find that to a Sri Lankan the difference between someone wearing trousers and another wearing a sarong was akin to the difference in my eyes between a lady wearing a skirt and another wearing slacks, would the enigma of the sarong be lost forever? So I won't ask. I'll just watch a shopkeeper standing behind his counter in his sarong and bare chest and think how great it is to be able to go to work in the same clothes you might wear while kicking back at the end of the day.

HOW NOW BROWN COW?

Unlike Australia, where cows will tend to be found in paddocks, Sri Lankan cows can be found anywhere, getting up to all sorts of mischief. Today I thought I would share my favourite cow anecdotes with you.



One sure-fire place to find cows is along the road leading up to the school my children attend. At the start of the road there is a large bull, owned by a man who chops wood to make kindling. He then puts it into his bullcart for the bull to pull and him to sell. When the bull is not pulling, he is usually found grazing across the road from the owner's house. However, occasionally I have seen him tethered to a post out the front of the owner's house. Not such a big deal, except that this bull is massive and the post is small and simple - and supports the house! It's a good thing for the owner that the bull never decides to go walk-about while tethered to the house.



Further along the road you will find a small herd of cows - maybe about 5 - and their calves. They are there every day, without fail, always at the same place, ambivalent to the traffic congestion around them. And why are they there? Well, this seems to be the place that people dump their rubbish. So the cows gather there and munch their way through plastic bags of refuse. Cows love rubbish. In fact, I suspect they actually love rubbish more than grass, as there are places where they might potentially graze on green grass but still they choose the rubbish. Burger, anyone?

Occasionally the cows do go for a bit of a wander along the road but it's not grass they're looking for. A sight that never fails to amuse me is a cow that has wandered up to one of the open-fronted shops that line the street and is standing at the counter as though it is trying to purchase a bun or banana. If it gets a little too inquisitive the shop owner will try and shoo it away before it tries to enter the shop but, more often than not, it is ignored until it figures it's not going to get anything and wanders back to the rubbish pile, where it figures it has better chances of getting something to eat.

Of course, the road to school is not the only place to find cows. In the centre of town, near the market area is an open area that is mostly gravel but does have patches of grass. Recently, a small herd of cows - again, maybe 5 or so plus calves - spent the day here (though goodness knows how they got there). Anyway, in one corner of the open space is a gravel pile. On this particular day the cows were up for a bit of excitement and adventure so they all decided to climb the gravel pile. There they were, all trying to fit themselves atop the gravel pile; the uppermost cows standing very proudly at the peak. I think they needed to plant a flag and claim the gravel pile in the name of all cow-dom.

But my all time favourite place to find cows is in the McDonalds car park. Does any more need to be said? Yes, today's blog was simply my excuse to use my favourite Sri Lanka photo.

DRIVING AT NIGHT

Driving long distances is never fun, especially with two children. In Sri Lanka, long distance takes on a whole new meaning. A trip to school can take as long as thirty five minutes in the morning, when traffic is bad. However, travelling the same route in the evening it may only take ten minutes. So it is not so much the distance that gobbles up all the time. It is more the condition of the road (bad to very bad), the traffic (busses, trucks, bikes, tractors, cars, vans and pedestrians in a single lane) and the speed limit (60km on open road) that ensure that a 100km trip can take as long as two and half hours.

We have now revised our concept of a long drive. Previously anything over two hours was long. Now we consider long to be anything over three or four hours. Below that is just a part of getting from A to B. If it doesn't become too frequent the boys actually look forward to a good trip as they get to play with the trip toys - their handheld computer games. The favorite at the moment is Star Wars, which can be a bit tricky, with Brenton being the master and Jaymon his padawan. Brenton is particularly patient generally and will guide his young apprentice in the ways of the gameboy without too much fuss.

Jaymon takes just as much enjoyment out of watching someone else play, especially any visitors that happen to be in the car. He will usually berate any that are unable to help him in the harder levels of Star Wars. Observing their failure, he will launch into an in-depth explanation of the best characters (which is Darth Vader "cos he can choke") and the best way to win (obviously without the help of his new pupil).

Most of the time we travel during the daylight hours as we try to keep some kind of regular schedule for the boys. However, at times it is neccessay to travel at night. Each time we do I invariably say to Hayley, "I really like travelling at night here", to which she generally replies, "Yeah I really love it too. Don't we say that every time we travel at night?". (Yes we do)

In Sri Lanka, the night is the best time for driving. Not because the traffic is any better, because it never is (you put 20 million people on an island the size of Tassie and see how the traffic is). But you get to see an entirely different side of Sri Lanka. People are more relaxed and lively at the same time, with the night offering relief from the ever present heat that is part of the daylight hours. Its not like there are more people around, it's just that they seem to stand out more. During the day the people just form a vague moving mass, while at night you see individuals living their life.

You notice the bbq shops that are scattered every few hundred meters down the road that in the day were empty dull concrete stalls. The produce at stalls tends to jump out of the darkness as each shop is lit from the inside while the road is rarely lit except by the headlights of passing cars. Each shop has it's own version of lighting, with the most common being fluro tubes that hang elegantly by their wiring. This lighting entitles you to a glimpse into each little shop, leaving you imagining the life that is being lived in that little world.

IN THE WORLD WHERE YOU LIVE (A CROWD OF HOUSES)

I think one of the most common questions I have been asked about Sri Lanka is "What are the houses like?". It's a difficult question to answer because there are so many different types to be found. There are Portuguese-era houses, Dutch-era houses and British-era houses. There are city houses, rural houses, high country houses and low country houses. There are slum houses and mansions and houses for anywhere in between. Plantation bungalows and fishermen's houses; modern buildings and ones that look like they have come straight from a story book; there is such a diverse range of architecture that I thought that the best way to answer the question would be with a photo tour.


A modest Negombo home. The family here can not afford all the finishing touches but it is a solid roof over their heads.












Most larger, modern houses follow this style. They are common in developed areas and occassionally can even be found springing up in rural areas. They are elaborate and decorative and, like a frightened animal, like to appear bigger than they really are.










A fisherman's home on the beachfront.

A beautiful rural home, complete with immaculate garden. Something pretty to drool over.

Here's a novel concept. The owner of this old home leases out his verandah to numerous lawyers. Several old tables are lined up along the verandah, each one being the 'office' of a different lawyer. The signs you can see along the lattice are advertising the different lawyers who can be found there. The home owner and his family still reside inside.

In the jungle.

Every now and then you will come across grand old dames such as this one. Cracked and falling apart in places, they still ooze so much more character and charm than most of their modern counterparts.

I doubt I'd be brave enough to stand on it, but it sure is pretty to look at.

From simple (the pile of coconut husks out the front will probably be used for fuel) . . .











. . . to modest, yet stylish . . .

. . . to Sanath Jayasuriya's house. (For those, like me, who aren't really into cricket, Jayasuriya is a member of the Sri Lankan cricket team. Nice digs, huh?!).

A stilt house in the hill country.

Hidden treasures . . .

. . . and the bare necesseties.

A single-room thatch building in Puttalam. It can be said that a home is more than bricks and mortar . . . but then again, sometimes bricks and mortar would be a nice start.

I hope you enjoyed today's tour. Please watch your step as you alight from the bus and have a nice day!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, GRANDMA!

Brenton is simply fantastic when it comes to playing with the local kids.

















Recently, the kids' school celebrated United Nations Day with a parade celebrating the 15 different countries represented at the school. Here are the proud representatives of the best nation in the world!








The kids playing on a recent trip to Nuwara Eliya.














Jaymon listening to a story in class. No, his class is not a training ground for batmen. This photo was taken on a special fancy dress day for the younger children.

Brenton waiting for the fancy dress parade with his class.

Jaymon's class at the fancy dress parade. Jaymon is Darth Vader. The excitement of being able to go to school dressed as Darth Vader gripped him for days prior to the event. Naturally, his light sabre was a big hit in this predominantly male class.

NUWARA ELIYA

Recently we made the long road trip up to Nuwara Eliya for the second time. We were there to look at amenities for future Australian trips, visit prospective micro-finance applicants and see the general needs of this unique community.

We love going there because it is such a different part of Sri Lanka. Its great to be able to get away from the heat and humidity of Negombo. Nuwara Eliya is the only place in Sri Lanka where your main concern for accommodation is the hot water and not the airconditioner. At 2000m ASL the children take immense pleasure in going through the clouds and wearing their jumpers for a few days.

As you travel up the mountain the vehicle air conditioner is turned off and the windows are opened, letting in the cool mountain air. The tea estates start to appear and eventually all that can be seen in all directions are the tea bushes interspersed with larger trees to control the erosion on the steep slopes. Some of the more common trees used for this are Gum trees so it really makes us think of home with gum trees everywhere.

As you approach the city you see vegetables sellers have their wares spread alongside the road. Those that can afford to have covered stalls while those that don't, display theirs on the road verge. The area around Nuwara Eliya is great for growing vegetables and you can get sorts that are not grown in the low country. Carrots, leeks, potatoes and rhubarb are the ones that I can recognise and have English names. Regardless of it's name, it is all a fraction of the cost of Colombo. As a result, the majority of these stalls cater to those that have come to Nuwara Eliya for a visit and then stock up on the cheap fresh produce on the way home.

The vendors are supplied by the market gardens that surround Nuwara Eliya and every possible piece of land is utilised with terraces and retaining walls. The ground is rich and the gardens produce the vegetables and also flowers. The locals wander round with jackets and beanies on all day which gives it an almost alpine feel, although they still have bare feet.

Heading out of Nuwara Eliya the mountain gets particularly steep for about 20km and the road twists and turns, with hair pins, blind corners and steep drop offs. However, the view is spectacular as one minute you are looking over the top of a villiage or tea factory and the next you are driving alongside those you have been peering down on. People are oblivious to the danger and quite happily wander next to the road. It is truly an amazing experience.

VISITORS FOR THE WEEKEND

Last weekend we were fortunate enough to have friends from home come and stay for the weekend. A couple of days is not long to show off the best that Sri Lanka has to offer, so it was definitely an action-packed weekend.


First stop after the airport was Colombo. We visited a family that lives on the train tracks. We had a delivery of art materials to make here. We had discovered a young lad with artistic talent and we were equipping him to start a small business making and selling cards. The good news for him is that he already has his first order.







Saturday morning was spent with a group of children we have been doing English classes with. They learnt a new song and loved performing a story in drama.










We read them a story from a book.













An art activity was a special treat for the children. They enjoyed tracing and decorating their hands.











One of the finished products.












We then headed off to have lunch with a local family. After lunch, there was a special music lesson and a bit of a sing-along. I'm sure you can imagine this boy's delight when he was told he was being given this guitar to keep. He kept practising for hours afterwards while we drank tea and admired wedding photos.







Sadly, though, all good things must come to an end. By Sunday morning it was time for our friends to move on. There was time for a whirlwind tour of Negombo; the heart of the town, the vegie markets, the fish markets, the boats on the lagoon and the all-important shopping centre for the obligatory box of Sri Lankan tea. Then a peaceful coffee on the beach strip before dashing off to the airport. Oh, how time flies when you're having fun!

BIG BUSINESS IN SRI LANKA

As part of our work we are helping people to start their own business. This is based on what skills they possess and the needs of a particuar area. As a result, we have been learning a bit about the way business works in Sri Lanka.

The road that we travel to take the children to school is a very busy road. In reality, it is probably better described as a very busy sealed track. Noting the amount of traffic, an enterprising young lady decided that it would be an ideal place to put her little stall. This sells fruit, nuts and a few vegetables that passers by could pick up. It must be a success because it is still there even after a few months. This success was obvious because shortly after someone else had decided to cash in on it. Another lady has set up a stall selling exactly the same thing right next to hers. Anywhere else this would cause no end of anomosity, but not in Sri Lanka. Both of these stalls are operating right next to each other still.

The exact same principle has created a lot of the small towns around Sri Lanka. This is extremely obvious on the road to Kandy. First you pass through cashew town, where young girls flag down passing cars to sell cashews - this waving becomes quite animated when white skin is seen. You will then pass through cane basket town, followed by clay pot village and lastly hot salted corn place in the middle of nowhere (maybe soon to be village).

In Colombo there are entire districts that are dedicated to one particular industry or selling a particular product. Although respectful of each other, competition is fierce. This results in any small difference being scrutinised and duplicated. So a successfull shop will inevitably have their signs copied. Trying to identifiy a partcular shop can be difficult but on the up side if I need a clay pot I know which town I need to go to.

THE MOMENTS I'VE MISSED

When I was a child my aunty gave me my first camera for my birthday. I remember my Grandma telling me that I should take it with me wherever I go because you never know when the perfect photo opportunities might present themselves. Today's post is all about how I should heed my Grandma's advice more diligently. I want to share with you four fleeting moments I wish I could have captured on camera but, sadly, I did not have it with me.

The first moment occurred while I was waiting outside the shipping agents while Darren was trying to organise the arrival of our goods into the country. On the opposite side of the street was a long, rendered wall, standing a good couple of metres high. It seemed to be an old wall, although sometimes it is hard to judge. It's grey surface was patterned with blacks and greens where the climate and time had played their hands. Even on it's own it held an interest for the eye. A lady hurried past and the vibrant yellows and oranges of her punjabi suit and head scarf shone out against the backdrop of this timeless wall. The brilliant colours billowed as the wind played with the materials and then in a moment both she and her colours were gone. In that instant I knew that this was the stuff that travel photographers would dream of and I felt like I had, indeed, stepped straight inside a travel book complete with beautiful, glossy photographs.

The second moment was found and missed on a trip to take the boys to school. As you drive along the streetsides are busy with a steady stream of bicycles and pedestrians, streetside stalls, shops and homes. I like to try and look further back, trying to catch glimpses of what lies behind the busy street side. That morning I caught sight of a large shed, or it is probably more appropriate to call it a lean-to; large sheets of corrugated iron held up by poles and boarded around with rough planks. There was little inside the shed; a dirt floor and one basic, wooden bench upon which sat a man, perhaps a little past the prime of his life. He wore a t-shirt and a pair of shorts, both of which had clearly seen a lot of work, and his feet were, naturally, bare. Around him, little beams of light pushed their way into the otherwise dark area through the multitude of holes in the tin and cracks between wooden planks. They shone brightly, catching the dust that was floating in the air. One of those moments where light plays so perfectly with shadow and the subject seems to display the very essence of humanity. Ah . . . so perfectly designed for a photo and then in a second the van had moved on and, once again, the busy streets dominated.

For the third moment I actually had the camera with me, but again we were travelling in a van . . . so quickly moving on. We were on our way back from hiking in World's End, which is situated in national park. It was a Thursday and, as it turns out, Thursday is wood collecting day. On Thursdays, locals have permission to collect firewood from within the domain of the park. As we travelled out of the park we passed several women carrying firewood. After collecting the long, thin branches, the women bundle them up and carry them home, balanced upon their heads. It was an amazing sight to see these women emerging from the forest hills piled up with sticks. Sadly, I was too embarrassed to ask the driver to stop so that I could happy-snap this delightful image and now, as I write this, I am kicking myself. Next time I go back to Horton's Plains I am going on a Thursday.

The final moment I wish to share with you was seen on a trip home from school with the boys. Ttwo men were walking down the street carrying a single bed. Now, I'm pretty sure that you have a mental image of two men carrying a bed between them, one at the head and the other at the foot. However, these men were carrying a bed EACH! The mattresses had been removed and so had two of the slats in the centre of each bed. Each man then stood in the middle of the bed where the removed slats had once been. They carried a wooden pole over their shoulders, as though bringing water from a well, but each end of the pole was attached to an end of the bed by a rope. They then walked down the road carrying their respective beds around them, bearing the weight with the pole on their shoulder. Amazing!!

So I wish I had my camera with me to capture those moments. I know they are captured in my mind but it would have been so much quicker and easier to share them with you visually than verbally. So I hope that my humble attempts to make words serve me have inspired your imaginations so that they too might see these beautiful, fleeting moments. We're off to do an English class this afternoon. Think I might just go and pack my camera now, before I forget.

JAYMON'S BIRTHDAY

Jaymon is now five. Although his birthday was on Friday, according to him that was only the day that he was turning five. He wouldn't actually be five until after his party on Saturday. You can't argue with that logic. I know - I tried and failed.

As is the tradition, we had a party and - against the tradition for children's parties - we didn't go to Maccas. We thought that a pool party would be great. It is always warm and we wouldn't have to organise many activities.

Then came the rain or, should I say, and the rain kept coming. We have had maybe two dry days in the last two weeks. So we went to plan B and moved the party inside, which was quite successful although more work! I bought some huge balloons which popped proportionally louder than their smaller cousins, like crackers going off. There was literally a cheer from the parents when the last one popped. After some inside games the kids were getting restless. Fortunately the rain stopped enough for a game of lolly hunt in the garden and by the time cake was eaten and I let off another a king size party popper (it was as big as a roll of wrapping paper and fires a wheelbarrow full of streamers, all for $4.00-bargain) the show was begining to wind down.
Finally we were able to use the pool. How great is that?! Even though it rained all morning it was still warm enough for a swim.

NIWTON AND WINNETHA

As part of our priorities here we are providing money to Sri Lankans to start their own small businesses. I have given an insight into one of these already (see The Eggman - Niwton).



The other is Winnetha, a single mother who previously had a sewing business until her machine broke beyond repair. As so often is the case, she didn't have enough money to buy a new one. We gave her a loan so that she could buy a new machine. She currently makes pillow cases and sheets from offcuts from the large garment factories that are in her area. Any offcuts that are too small for this are used to make doormats. The thread that she uses is also from the garment factories, now too small to be used in the automated machines.



The business has progressed in the last two months and she now has a regular order of 100 pillow cases a month. Her son makes these deliveries and sells the goods on a bike she was able to buy from the profits. He also maintains the machines and assists with the cutting and is learning some basic tailoring. Here in Sri Lanka, most of the tailors are men so this hopefully will give him some opportunity in that field.


On my last visit we collected the monthly repayment and got some feedback on her business and how it is impacting her. She tells me, "Having the business has given me a hope for the future because I am in control of my income." Previously Winnetha relied on odd jobs and the generosity of others in her community and family to survive. She also mentions that having to make repayments keeps her accountable and committed to her work.



Winnetha hopes in the next 12 months to sell her machine so that someone else can start a small business in another area and buy a more sophisticated machine. She will then be able to make more than just simple items and increase her profit.



We are currently looking at three more businesses to start up in the next few weeks. This is something that is making an obvious change in people and we are excited with what the future holds.

FLASH THOSE PEARLY WHITES!

Living in a country where English is not the mother tongue, I have come to a greater appreciation of how vital communication is to each of us. Almost every moment of every day we are communicating to those around us, or afar, often without being aware of it. And yet, after months of developing new language skills, it is only fairly recently I came to a greater awareness of the significance of a communication tool that transcends language, is learnt in infancy and can be used by all.

The smile. There is some piece of trivia that surfaces occasionally (I'm sure you will be familiar with it) exhorting us to smile as

frowning requires the use of many more muscles. It seems like a trite piece of trivia but
further thought might encourage us to put those smiling muscles to

work. We all know that a smile can show that you're happy but so much more can also be communicated with a simple smile

A smile can be disarming. It can show that I come in peace and mean no harm. It can ask you to trust me and can indicate that I only intend to treat you with kindness.

With a shy smile, accompanied perhaps with a drop of the head or lowered eyes, one can show deference to another, humbly requesting that they treat you with kindness and sympathy. Or one might use a broad smile and a nod of the head for a confident greeting.

A stranger can be made to feel welcome and accepted with a friendly beam. Without a word, they can be made to feel safe and at ease. A smile in return can communicate appreciation for these simplest of kindnesses.










A smile allows us to tease or flirt. A coquettish smile and fluttered eyelashes can win a heart. Yet a leery grin can have completely the opposite effect. And, girls, don't we well understand the importance of knowing when a smile should be absent!














A goofy grin can be our apology when we are feeling socially awkward. In return, a friendly smile can ease the discomfort of the one who feels so very out of their depth.










A smile can show our approval; for a tasty meal, a child's artwork or someone's hard efforts. Our smile can bring encouragement to others who have possibly poured their heart and soul into what they have done and simply want to feel appreciated.










All without a word! It's amazing how much can be communicated in a fleeting moment and how little we realise what we are 'saying'. What's more, do we ever fully appreciate how much effect these communications can have on others? So, smile! Besides, it takes much less effort than frowning.